Thursday, September 29, 2016

When Are Tits Not Really Tits But More Like a Stylist's Accessoire to Rev It Up a Bit?

This morning, after my evening dose of fashion porn via Vogue.com (http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear) my question is

When did it become ok to show a woman's breasts on the runway? 

I am being sincere, not judgmental. There's usually at least one 'look' in any given runway show featuring some diaphanous material veiling tiny tits. 

Here's one of the only not black-and-white numbers from the new designer at Lanvin, Bouchra Jarrar:





Question no 2: Where are we meant to wear these without a negligee (or full-on turtleneck, for that matter) underneath? I'm trying to place it: a dinner, a cocktail party, pasta night at home? A gala event? Hardly. (Though I am sure the Kardashians can pull it off, I'm interested in a fashion historian's answer in relation to feminism. Was the first 'boob look' related to women's lib?)


ANSWER here, thanks to my friend Hans Loeffler: it was YSL in 1968. 



It was Yves who began the campaign to free the woman of her iron-clad bra and of the taboo associated with showing our (yes, albeit) tiny tits. Apparently there is a smart campaign going on out there called #freethenipple (http://www.dazeddigital.com/artsandculture/article/24253/1/what-the-fuck-is-freethenipple-anyway). READ that please. Super interesting. And all very well and good, but I'm sure no one has the answer to this one:

Question no 3: Why is it acceptable to "show" tiny tits, veiled, usually, yes, and the big ones remain pornographic? 
We teenage-boobie-types have the option, so to say, of bearing them in public (if we were to wear everything that came across the catwalk, that is) but the bigger ladies don't. 

Not fair in my book. 
More on YSL's radical politics here. He was also apparently responsible for putting Naomi on the cover of Vogue. Bravo, dear Yves, rest his soul. We love you ever more. (I thought it was Imam who was the first black model on the cover, and a quick Google check reveals it to be Beverly Johnson in 1974.)

http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/25429/1/how-yves-saint-laurent-changed-fashion

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